The neighborhood of Coyoacán is considered the bohemian capital of Mexico City.
History and tradition make this one of the most beautiful and enjoyable parts of the city.
Its peculiar colors and cultural activity intertwine along its cobbled streets, its multiple churches, and its squares, where having a coffee, a beer, or walking through a museum become an almost inescapable need.
Located in the southern part of the city, Coyoacán was chosen as a favorite by many bohemian circles.
Many famous personalities picked Coyoacán as their neighborhood: Octavio Paz, Emilio “El Indio” Fernández, Salvador Novo, Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, and Leon Trotsky, to name a few.
The air in Coyoacán is one with the spirits of artists and intellectuals, their presence almost palpable.
Its name means “place with coyotes.
” Naturally, that isn’t a problem today.
Originally it was home to the Colhuas of Culhuacán, and was later conquered by Cortés, who established in it the first city hall and council for New Spain.
Haciendas and
plantations grew throughout it, with stately mansions spreading throughout.
It was in this way that an avalanche of urbanization transformed this land into what is known today and what draws many visitors for its colonial charm.
The mysterious touch still lingers in the air, and the footsteps of those that lived here are still imprinted in the area.
The houses which they inhabited might today be museums.
For instance, the mansion of “El Indio” Fernández opens its doors during the festivities of the Day of the Dead, making this urban fortress, designed by Luis Barragán, the home of an impressively ornate and beautiful altar.
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The church of Saint John the Baptist, an imposing construction built from 1522-1552.
You will find it in the main square of the cultural center of Coyoacán.
Visit, also, the polychromed wood reliefs inside the church, in addition to its ornate ceilings.
Once you have had a chance to take it all in, you can walk by the kiosk nearby, going back to the Porfirian period.
It is used to this day for events, like concerts or puppet shows.
An indispensable destination is the Casa Azul, Museum of Frida Kahlo.
This is possibly one of the most visited museums in the city, serving as a set for the Hollywood film, Frida.
The museum will take you through different stages in her life, giving you intimate insight into her art, family, home, and love.
Near the Casa Azul you will find the Museum Home of Leon Trotsky.
Here you will find out about the life and death (in Mexico) of the Russian communist intellectual.
The home is divided into a permanent collection, and a space for changing events, exhibits, and films.
We also recommend visiting the charming Callejón del Aguacate (Avocado Alley), a narrow alley considered by many to be haunted.
If you don’t come across any ghosts, do not despair; you will be equally enchanted by the neocolonial architecture in the area.
These buildings have certainly seen it all.
Stop somewhere for a cup of coffee and relax, or visit the fortress-home of “El Indio” Fernández.
Other places you cannot miss here: The National Center of the Arts, The National Cinematheque, El Hijo del Cuervo restaurant, The Coyoacan Cultural Forum, its Botanical Garden, La Celestina, The Coyoacan Nursery, Anahuacalli Museum, and its National Museum of Popular Cultures.
Things to see and do
art expos, cultural tours, cinema, theater, museums, gastronomy, cafes, bars, nightlife, musical and literary forums.
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